Geneology of the Corset

The corset is used as a means of sexual enhancement. It is worn mainly by women to achieve a certain silhouette. Depending on the era, the type of corset varies to convey the body shape that is popular of the time. It is hard to say where and when the corset originated from, but its popularity was first pronounced sometime between the 1500s and the 1600s and was worn at the time by both males and females.



Stay
16th century
This corset known as a "stay" had shoulder straps and flattened the bust. This helped to achieve a cone shape to the torso.



Short Stay
18th century
The short stay did not focus on flattening the stomach as it predecessor, but was used more as a means of emphasizing the breasts due to the empire style waist fashionable at the time.



Victorian Corset
Mid 19th century
The corset emphasized the hourglass look by cinching the waist and hugging around the hips.



S-curve Corset
Early 1900s (Edwardian)
This corset is straight in the front and has an S-curve to it. It was intended to alleviate pressure off the stomach, giving it its nickname the "health corset." Unfortunately, it caused more problems for the wearer due to its unnatural posture where the torso was pushed forward and the hips protruded back.



Madonna
1990s
Designer: Jean-Paul Gaultier


Model: Abbey Lee
Spring 2009
Designer: Alexander McQueen


Keira Knightley
2007
Designer: Louis Vuitton

Corsets now
Corsets still maintain its primary function as a means of sexual enhancement, but now have become more popular as outerwear as opposed to it prior use as undergarment. They were revived in the 90s by Jean-Paul Gaultier and popularized by stars such as Madonna. The look of the corset has even been incorporated into the outer clothing of jackets, tops, dresses, even bathing suits.

Historical draped/Tailored Garments

Draped Garments:



Traditional Dance Costume
Cambodia
In the above photo is the traditional costume of Cambodian ballet dancers. The outfit consists of four parts: sampot sarabat (a sarong folded into a series of pleats in the front and fastened with a gold belt), sbai (similar to a shawl, draped over the left shoulder), av pak (a silk undershirt), and srang kar (an embroidered collar worn around the neck).



Melia
Tunisia
The Melia is used in Tunisian dancing. It consists of a garment that is held together by two silver fibulas (similar to the safety pin).



Lamba
Madagascar
The Lamba is the traditional garment in Madagascar and consists of two different pieces: the lamba oany (wraps around the body) and the kisaly (cover either the head or shoulders).



Tailored Garments:



The New Look
by Dior
1947
The New Look consisted of a fitted jacket and a full length skirt. Its introduction was a huge success because it had a feminine feel that women longed for after the war.



Cuirass bodice dress
Late 1800s
The cuirasse bodice was an elongated bodice that dropped below the waist line and fitted over the hips. It created an "armor-encased" look.



Goyesca
Spain
17th century (originating)
The goyesca is the traditional attire of the Spanish bullfighter. Named so because of it origins during the time of Spanish artist, Francisco Goya. The costume is tailored and heavily embroidered and assist in conveying the bullfighters importance in status.

The 6 Functions of Dress:

1. Environmental protection

Clothing can be used as a means to protect from the surrounding environment. In the desert, clothes are used as a shield from the sun and as a mean of keeping sweat from evaporating from the body. Wearing loose clothes allows for a layer of air to circulate though.
Designer: Unknown

2. Decoration

Some forms of clothing are purely meant for decoration. It conveys a sense of personality through our choice of clothes. As seen in the crocheted scarf above, it can also express certain interests.
Designer: Twinkie-Chan, 2008

3. Gender Differentiation

Fashion in earlier periods was used to differentiate males and females such as that with the featured photo of the traditional Japanese clothing. Men and women both wore kimonos. The men though wore theirs simple with narrower sleeves. The women on the on the hand wore them with elaborate detailing. From this it can be seen that certain forms of dress were associated with each gender. Recently though, those lines seem to have become a bit blurred.
Designer: Unknown

4. Group Membership

Clothes can also serve as a way to show a unity between people. Wearing certain garments can indicate belonging to a particular group as can be seen with these monks. The simple cloth shows their separation from any corrupt material possessions, but it also lets us know they belong to a group that believes in a spiritual cause.
Designer: Unknown

5. Ceremonialism

Clothing can be used for ceremonies where special garments are worn to mark an occasion. In this case, it so signify the completion of education and used for a graduation ceremony. By wearing these robes the recipient is distinguished from the group for her achievement.
Designer: Unknown, 2004

6. Sexual Enhancement

Articles of clothing can help to enhance sexual appeal. This can be done by emphasizing certain parts of the body. In the above photo, the wearer is dressed in a top that is nearly a second skin. With its molding to the body and slight exposures of skin, it highlights the long, lean torso and creates an almost raw, sexual feeling.
Designer: Jean Paul Gaultier, 2001

A Fashion Sourcebook...

...is a place to house ideas and inspirations. The main purpose though is to explore fashions in the Twentieth century.

When it comes to me, I can be a contradiction. I have a love for the simplistic, but I also have an admiration for the complex. This can also be seen in the fashions I will be delving into. I like to think that anything can be done in fashion so I like to be able to see everything.